Rifle scopes

• Focal plane first. In a first focal plane (FFP) scope the reticle grows and shrinks with magnification, so your holdover subtensions are correct at every power. That's what you want if you range with the reticle or dial and hold in the same string. Second focal plane (SFP) keeps the reticle one size — cleaner at low power, but subtensions are only true at one magnification, usually the top end.
• Match the adjustment unit to your reticle. A MIL reticle with MOA turrets is a mistake you will make exactly once, in low light, on a timer. Pick one system and keep it across the rifle.
• Tube diameter buys elevation, not brightness. A 34mm or 35mm tube gives the erector more room to travel, which is why long-range scopes use them. It does not make the image brighter — that's objective size, coatings and exit pupil.
• Turrets are the part that fails. Look for a zero stop, positive detents you can count under gloves, and a documented box test. Tracking is the single most expensive thing to get right and the first thing cut on budget optics.
• Eye box beats edge-to-edge sharpness. A forgiving eye box — how much head position error the scope tolerates before you get scope shadow — matters more in field positions than clinical resolution charts.
• Weight is a system decision. A 36oz scope on a 6.5lb mountain rifle changes the rifle's character completely. Budget optic weight at the same time you budget rifle weight.

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