Buying a Used Gun Online: Questions to Ask and What to Check

Most of the risk in a used-gun purchase can be caught with the right questions beforehand and a careful, unhurried inspection at the licensed dealer.

Why used-gun buying rewards patience

A used firearm can be an excellent buy: a gun that has already had its early wear sorted out, in a model that is no longer made, or at a more modest outlay. It can also be someone else's unresolved problem. The difference is rarely luck. It is the questions you ask before you commit, and the care you take when the gun is in front of you.

This checklist is for buying from a distance, where the gun ships to a local licensed dealer for you to complete the transfer. We cover the transfer process itself in how FFL transfers work, and the broader question of when used beats new in our new versus used guide. This piece is the working checklist. No products are linked here, because nothing in the process requires buying anything.

Step 1: before you send any money

Ask the seller, in writing, for the following. A good seller answers quickly and plainly.

1. Exact make, model and variant. Not "a Glock" or "a Ruger revolver," but the name on the slide or frame.
2. Serial number. A responsible seller will provide it, or photos that show it. Check it against the photos and later against the gun in your hands.
3. Clear photos. Both sides, the muzzle, the bore, the markings, the lockwork, the grip and any wear. Ask for photos of areas that tend to hide problems: the underside of the barrel, the frame rails, the forcing cone on a revolver.
4. History. How and when did they get it? How much has it been shot? Has it been repaired, refinished or modified?
5. What is included. Original box, manual, magazines, accessories. Missing magazines are a real cost on some models.
6. Reason for selling. Not a smoking gun in itself, but an unclear or defensive answer is worth noting.
7. Written terms. Payment method, who handles shipping to the dealer, and, most importantly, an inspection or return window if one is offered.

If the seller refuses to answer basic questions or pushes you to skip inspection, treat it as a reason to walk away.

Step 2: confirm the transfer logistics

Before payment, call your local licensed dealer. Ask whether they receive transfers, what they charge, what paperwork they need, whether they allow you to inspect the gun before you complete the paperwork, and how they handle a gun you decide to reject. Policies differ, so settle this before the gun is shipped. The federal paperwork you complete for the dealer is ATF Form 4473; the ATF source below describes it.

Step 3: at the dealer, safety first

When you arrive, the dealer will typically hand you the gun after verifying it is unloaded. Verify the status yourself, and do it the same way every time:

1. Keep the muzzle in a safe direction.
2. Keep your finger off the trigger.
3. Open the action and look and feel into the chamber.
4. Remove the magazine.
5. If anything about the gun's condition looks unsafe, stop and tell the dealer.

Step 4: the physical inspection

Work from the outside in.

Serial number and markings. Match the serial number to your paperwork and photos. Look for signs of tampering around it, such as grinding, deep scratches or filled areas. An altered or removed serial number is a serious problem. Do not complete the transfer; tell the dealer and consider contacting the seller and the proper authorities.

Frame, slide, receiver and stock. Look for cracks, especially around stress points. Hairline cracks in wooden stocks, slide rails or the dust-cover area on pistols matter. Surface rust that wipes off is cosmetic; pitting is not.

Bore and chamber. Use a bright light. A bore should be free of obstructions. Look for heavy pitting, bulges or rings. A bright bore with shallow wear is usually fine; a dark, rough bore may shoot poorly. Inspect the crown at the muzzle, since damage there can hurt accuracy.

Barrel fit and lockup. On a semi-automatic pistol, check slide-to-frame fit and barrel lockup. Some play is normal on some designs, and on others it is not. Compare it with what you know of the model.

Trigger and safeties. With the dealer's permission and only if it is safe for that model, check that the trigger works smoothly, resets and that safeties engage and disengage. Do not dry-fire rimfire guns unless the manual says you can.

Revolvers. Check cylinder lockup with the hammer back; excessive play suggests wear. Check that the cylinder rotates fully and locks in each chamber, and look at the gap between cylinder and barrel and the condition of the forcing cone. Timing problems are one reason to consider a gunsmith before buying an older revolver.

Magazines. Inspect each magazine for cracks, dents or rust. Check that it seats and drops freely. Magazines are consumable and often the first thing to fix.

Aftermarket parts. Identify non-factory parts and ask whether they were professionally installed. Modifications are not automatically bad, but they affect value and reliability.

Step 5: ask the dealer's opinion

Dealers handle many guns and often have an eye for trouble. Ask them whether anything looks off to them. You are not obliged to take their advice, but it is free.

Red flags that mean stop

• An altered, removed or illegible serial number.
• Cracks in the frame, slide, receiver or barrel.
• A seller who will not provide the serial or detailed photos.
• Pressure to pay immediately, or an unusual payment method.
• A price that seems too good for the model and condition.
• Evidence that the gun has been modified in ways not described.

After you take it home

Clean and inspect the gun fully before the first shot, using the manual's instructions. Check the manufacturer's website for any safety notices or recalls for that model. Function-test it with inexpensive ammunition before relying on it for any serious purpose. Secure it properly; our piece on gun safe ratings explains what the labels mean.

A note on price discipline

A used-gun purchase should still be judged on total cost: the gun, shipping, the dealer's transfer fee and any repairs. Our guide to reading promotions and sales pages applies the same math to new guns.

Check your local rules

Transfer requirements, waiting periods, handgun rosters and private-sale rules vary by state and locality. Confirm the rules where you live, not just where the seller is. This page is general information, not legal advice, and it reflects what we know as of October 2026.